I used a brake line tee from the Old Abs unit and correct fittings and tied the front brake lines together. some of the fittings are standred and some are metric.you will figure that one out. I used a double flare tool and made lines from the lines off the ABS unit.
Need to slightly bend up lip on firewall, remove the aluminum spacer from the ZJ booster if it came with one, take off ZJ pro valve and reuse your ABS proportioning valve. it came with booster.master,lines from master to pro-valve and pro valve with cut off lines with fittings off the pro valve and bracket. I am installing Grand Cherokee 1994 to 1998 ZJ non-abs master/booster. So to make a long story short, taking out the ABS and it's going in the trash.
Some of the dealers even have the balls to sell the actuators and pumps on Ebay at full retail knowing they are a lifetime recall item. I could push it and have them get the ABS actuator and pump dealer to dealer but they wince at that as it costs them money to do that.and most dealers dont even want to touch the Bendix 9, let alone fix it under recall. I was told the ABS actualtor for the Bendix 9 is NS-1 which means Chrysler does not have anymore. I have ABS and it freakin died last week and me not working at the dealer anymore I dont have the access to lifetime ABS actuator and pump replacement on the Bendix 9 ABS on the early XJ's easily. I am doing the conversion on my 1990 XJ as we speak. rear i've been removed stabilizer bar and when use the 31' all are fine (more or less). now I've 2' with coil spacer in front and blocks in rear. The front stabilizer is reconnected, (takes just a few minutes), for safety on all flat higher speed road use. Keeping all wheels on the ground is good, and the disconnecting of the stabilizer bars will allow you to better keep them on uneven ground. Some say I could go with 31 inch tires, but I think that is just unnecessary, both for wheel bearing wear, and possible inner tire well contact. Do you have a lift kit installed to warrant the use of 33's? My kit is 2 inches lift, and I would go no higher than 29, or 30 inch tires, especially if you remove the rear stabilizer bar, and obtain a front stabilizer disconnect/connect kit such as JKS.
I hope someone will verify one way, or the other so you do not cause unwanted damage. Now I am not certain, but I think, a guess, that '90 XJ's have the same wheel bearings. Why? Because the wheel bearings are too small in width, and the additional pressures of big tires, or even wheel spacers, (for a wider stance), will eat the wheel bearings prematurely. The bendix system is a really crappy and stupid design, compared to more modern ABS systems that use a standard style booster + MC.Stefanoquinto My '89 cannot go with big tires like you want. If you've ever done any brake-related work on your vehicles, the swap can be done in a couple of hours.Įven if you can find a Jeep dealership that would replace your existing broken ABS system with new parts, I wouldn't take the offer.
I can't remember how long each one needs to be, some shops may carry the right lengths when asked. I'd have the brake hard lines lengths pre-measured, cut to length and flaired at a shop. Beware when cutting/ unscrewing the hard line that leads from the pump/ accumulator assembly on the passenger side it may have brake fluid under high pressure in it. ABS brain box is located under rear seat. I'd replace the brake soft lines while doing this.Īll ABS- related stuff can be removed, I went as far as deleted all sensors and wiring from the wire harnesses. IIRC 3/8" ID rubber vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the booster (~10" long)ĥ. Brake proportioning valve from a non-ABS XJĤ. New booster + MC (see recommendations from above)ģ. New brake hard lines (they're so damn old on a '90 XJ I'd replace all) from MC to proportioning valve, and from prop. XJ and ZJ double diaphragm booster is a bolt-on, although a fairly tight fit.ġ. WJ booster + MC needs you to fab a 1/4" spacer between firewall and booster. I used a Waggy MC + stock 1990 booster, should've gone with either a 1995+ XJ (or ZJ= booster + MC or even better one from a WJ. My brake lights (and the OEM switch) worked perfectly. No need to replace the brake light switch or splice in a different one, but I did need to re-drill a new hole to the brake pedal when I did the bendix ABS delete on my first XJ.